Tuesday, April 28, 2009
Sunday, April 19, 2009
Drip Drop, Drippity Drop Drop
Hey Everyone,
This entry will discuss leaks in your S13 240sx' power steering system.
I've had Power Steering leaks of my own in my S13 240sx prompting myself to replace mine with an aftermarket piece. My Power Steering Line running from the Power Steering Pump to the Steering Rack was old, cracked and leaking.
Many of my friends that own S13 240sx' have OEM Power Steering lines go bad on them and have had problems with the OEM hardline that runs into the steering rack. I've seen a Power Steering Rack gushing with P/S Fluid from the OEM hardline... it was heartwrenching. After having to fill up my resevior twice a week, I decided to go ahead and order an aftermarket line.
The process for me to replace my power steering line was eye opening if anything. I underestimated the labor involved, didn't have the proper tools and didn't look into any diagrams before hand.
***Make sure you have your tires chocked and have a flashlight or headlight or be in a well-lit area.
***Make sure you give your car ample enough time to cool off if you've had the car running or make sure you have the proper safety equipment to prevent from being burned by hot metal bits in the engine bay, You will be working on the exhaust side of the engine bay for this.
These instructions are how to do this properly and what I should have done in the first place. These instructions are written by your truly ;).
Parts
-Fujii-SPL High Pressure Power Steering Line
-Teflon Tape
Tools
-17mm Stubby Wrench
-18mm Stubby Wrench
-19mm Stubby Wrench
-10mm Wrench (Preferably ratcheting)
-3/8 drive ratchet w/ small extension
-3/8 drive 10mm socket
-3/8 drive 12mm socket
-Appropriately sized Socket to remove P/S Line from the P/S Pump
-Breaker Bar
-Long Nose Pliers
-Drain Pan for all the P/S Fluid you will be spilling everywhere
optional
-Dremel tool w/ attachments
1) I would start by draining all the P/S Fluid from the Power Steering Reservoir located on the Exhaust Side of the engine bay
2) While the Fluid is draining, go ahead and remove the hidden 10mm bolt on the bracket that spaces out the P/S hardlines that run into the P/S Rack. The bracket it located near the Passenger Side Engine Mount. If you look down and see a rubber bushing with a metal bracket wrapped around it, use your fingers and feel along the frame and you will find a 10mm bolt.
3) After you take out the 10mm bolt, it takes a little ingenuity to get the bracket off the bushing/hardlines. The bracket wraps around the bushing and hooks back on itself where it is bolted to the frame. This is where I used my dremel with a cutting bit and cut through the top of the metal bracket and used a pair of long nosed pliers and yanked the bracket off.
4) Unplug the P/S sensor. The sensor is located where the P/S line converts over to the P/S Hard Line near the front of the vehicle.
5) Undue the brackets holding the P/S line and Hardline located near the front of the vehicle with the appropriate 10mm and 12mm sockets and ratchet
6) Use the appropriate sized socket to bust off the P/S Line off the backside of the P/S Pump. There are 2 huge bolts on the P/S Pump, a top one and one behind it, you need to bust off the one in the back facing the firewall.
7) Take a 17mm wrench and remove the P/S Line that goes to the rack. If you are on the Passenger Side Fender and look down to the P/S Rack, it's the Hardline on the left, the one closest to the nose of the vehicle.
8) After you remove the hardline nut holding the hardline to the rack you have to maneuver, shimmy the P/S line and P/S Hardline out of the engine bay... the easiest way for me was to use my dremel and a cutting disc and cut sections of the hardline and remove it in two seperate pieces.
9) Once you remove the OEM lines, now it's time to position the Fujii-SPL High Pressure Power Steering Line.
10) Make sure you Teflon the threads on all ends and fittings of the Fujii-SPL line.
11) Use a 17mm wrench to remove the other P/S Line in the rack in order to get better work clearance when you install the Fujii-SPL line.
12) Use the appropriatly sized socket to install the Fujii-SPL line into the P/S Pump. Fish the other end down to the P/S Rack.
13) Use a 19mm Stubby Wrench to tighten down the Fujii-SPL line into the steering rack and an 18mm Stubby Wrench to secure the secondary nut into the P/S Line nut.
14) Tighten to "other" P/S hardline back into the rack with a17mm wrench.
Bleeding the P/S System
1) Fill the Power Steering Resevior and take a 10-minute break.
2) Jack the front of the car up so the front wheels are not touching the ground. (use jackstands for safety!)
3) ENGINE OFF, turn the steering wheel back and forth quickly for a minute or two, contacting steering lock lightly.
4) ENGINE ON, repeat step 3.
5) ENGINE OFF, lower the front end until the tires just barely touch the ground
6) ENGINE ON, turn steering wheel back and forth numerous times and fill the reservoir if necessary.
7) ENGINE OFF, lower the car and you are ready to go!
Low and behold you have done away with leaky power steering and stupid brackets!!!
I originally did not have stubby wrenches and ended up tightening the lines going to the rack with needle nose pliers... that lasted about 2 days before the threads back out and starting pissing out P/S fluid. I recently purchased Stubby Wrenches and was able to tighten down the nuts properly.
Sorry for lack of pictures in the post. I'll make sure to try and incorporate them in future posts.
-Mainichi Tuning
This entry will discuss leaks in your S13 240sx' power steering system.
I've had Power Steering leaks of my own in my S13 240sx prompting myself to replace mine with an aftermarket piece. My Power Steering Line running from the Power Steering Pump to the Steering Rack was old, cracked and leaking.
Many of my friends that own S13 240sx' have OEM Power Steering lines go bad on them and have had problems with the OEM hardline that runs into the steering rack. I've seen a Power Steering Rack gushing with P/S Fluid from the OEM hardline... it was heartwrenching. After having to fill up my resevior twice a week, I decided to go ahead and order an aftermarket line.
The process for me to replace my power steering line was eye opening if anything. I underestimated the labor involved, didn't have the proper tools and didn't look into any diagrams before hand.
***Make sure you have your tires chocked and have a flashlight or headlight or be in a well-lit area.
***Make sure you give your car ample enough time to cool off if you've had the car running or make sure you have the proper safety equipment to prevent from being burned by hot metal bits in the engine bay, You will be working on the exhaust side of the engine bay for this.
These instructions are how to do this properly and what I should have done in the first place. These instructions are written by your truly ;).
Parts
-Fujii-SPL High Pressure Power Steering Line
-Teflon Tape
Tools
-17mm Stubby Wrench
-18mm Stubby Wrench
-19mm Stubby Wrench
-10mm Wrench (Preferably ratcheting)
-3/8 drive ratchet w/ small extension
-3/8 drive 10mm socket
-3/8 drive 12mm socket
-Appropriately sized Socket to remove P/S Line from the P/S Pump
-Breaker Bar
-Long Nose Pliers
-Drain Pan for all the P/S Fluid you will be spilling everywhere
optional
-Dremel tool w/ attachments
1) I would start by draining all the P/S Fluid from the Power Steering Reservoir located on the Exhaust Side of the engine bay
2) While the Fluid is draining, go ahead and remove the hidden 10mm bolt on the bracket that spaces out the P/S hardlines that run into the P/S Rack. The bracket it located near the Passenger Side Engine Mount. If you look down and see a rubber bushing with a metal bracket wrapped around it, use your fingers and feel along the frame and you will find a 10mm bolt.
3) After you take out the 10mm bolt, it takes a little ingenuity to get the bracket off the bushing/hardlines. The bracket wraps around the bushing and hooks back on itself where it is bolted to the frame. This is where I used my dremel with a cutting bit and cut through the top of the metal bracket and used a pair of long nosed pliers and yanked the bracket off.
4) Unplug the P/S sensor. The sensor is located where the P/S line converts over to the P/S Hard Line near the front of the vehicle.
5) Undue the brackets holding the P/S line and Hardline located near the front of the vehicle with the appropriate 10mm and 12mm sockets and ratchet
6) Use the appropriate sized socket to bust off the P/S Line off the backside of the P/S Pump. There are 2 huge bolts on the P/S Pump, a top one and one behind it, you need to bust off the one in the back facing the firewall.
7) Take a 17mm wrench and remove the P/S Line that goes to the rack. If you are on the Passenger Side Fender and look down to the P/S Rack, it's the Hardline on the left, the one closest to the nose of the vehicle.
8) After you remove the hardline nut holding the hardline to the rack you have to maneuver, shimmy the P/S line and P/S Hardline out of the engine bay... the easiest way for me was to use my dremel and a cutting disc and cut sections of the hardline and remove it in two seperate pieces.
9) Once you remove the OEM lines, now it's time to position the Fujii-SPL High Pressure Power Steering Line.
10) Make sure you Teflon the threads on all ends and fittings of the Fujii-SPL line.
11) Use a 17mm wrench to remove the other P/S Line in the rack in order to get better work clearance when you install the Fujii-SPL line.
12) Use the appropriatly sized socket to install the Fujii-SPL line into the P/S Pump. Fish the other end down to the P/S Rack.
13) Use a 19mm Stubby Wrench to tighten down the Fujii-SPL line into the steering rack and an 18mm Stubby Wrench to secure the secondary nut into the P/S Line nut.
14) Tighten to "other" P/S hardline back into the rack with a17mm wrench.
Bleeding the P/S System
1) Fill the Power Steering Resevior and take a 10-minute break.
2) Jack the front of the car up so the front wheels are not touching the ground. (use jackstands for safety!)
3) ENGINE OFF, turn the steering wheel back and forth quickly for a minute or two, contacting steering lock lightly.
4) ENGINE ON, repeat step 3.
5) ENGINE OFF, lower the front end until the tires just barely touch the ground
6) ENGINE ON, turn steering wheel back and forth numerous times and fill the reservoir if necessary.
7) ENGINE OFF, lower the car and you are ready to go!
Low and behold you have done away with leaky power steering and stupid brackets!!!
I originally did not have stubby wrenches and ended up tightening the lines going to the rack with needle nose pliers... that lasted about 2 days before the threads back out and starting pissing out P/S fluid. I recently purchased Stubby Wrenches and was able to tighten down the nuts properly.
Sorry for lack of pictures in the post. I'll make sure to try and incorporate them in future posts.
-Mainichi Tuning
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