Alignment

Taking the TE72 for an Alignment at Truline Chula Vista tomorrow for my 9am appointment.

TE72

Changed out the Transmission Fluid on the A40 Mission and when I drained it, only about a quart dumped out (repair manual states that 2 1/2 quarts should empty). The transmission dipstick tube/fill tube was a beezy to get to and had to fab up an extension to my funnel from a gear oil bottle tip.

I was about a quart and a half low, filled her up, shifted through the gears a few times and checked the fluid again. The 3-Speed transmission engages smoothly and doesn't hesitate anymore. Hopefully no moderate damage was done to the torque converter.

Automatic Transmissions work with thin clutch discs and valving while Manual Transmissions work with gears. ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) is viscous enough to slide between the multiple discs allowing smooth operation, while Gear Fluid is substantially thicker in order to keep the gears cool and lubricated.

There are generally two types of Automatic Transmission Fluid, Dextron and Type-F. Dextron ATF contains friction-modifiers while Type-F ATF does not contain any friction-modifiers. If you plan on changing out your Automatic Transmission Fluid yourself, please refer to your owners/repair manual for the proper type of ATF for your vehicle.

Looking to do some maintenance on the TE72 Corolla and get it smogged before swapping the engine and transmission on my 240sx.

Ordered from Napa:

~Front Rotors

~Front Brake Pads (Metallic)

~NGK Spark Plug Wires

~Distributor Cap and Rotor

Still need to order a Fuel Filter =/

-Mainichi Tuning

Engine Set Arrived; TE72 Temp'd!!!

How's it going everyone!

Got my S14 motor/clutch/transmission set in the garage and spent 2-hours today in the DMV waiting in line to dish over a large amount of cash to get the TE72 Corolla temporarily registered for smog.

Things are starting to work out.

Let's all cross our fingers!

-Mainichi Tuning

Unforseen

So my car is down and am awaiting an S14 KA24DE to swap into it. This past weekend my engine started overheating and was burning mad oil. The engine in my car has been abused by too many owners and has done me well.

Having issues registering a 1980 TE72 Toyota Corolla. The previous owner apparently owes a lot in fees and I have to settle it out with him.

Wish me luck,

-Mainichi Tuning

Long Wait (Gauges and Brake Info!)

How's it going everyone!

Decided to start posting instead of waiting for a big install to put something here. I know a few of you have been waiting for awhile for me to post.

What you need to know about installing Oil Pressure and Water Temp Gauges

I feel that two of the most important engine vitals you need to keep an eye on is Oil Pressure and Water Temp. If you have low Oil Pressure, it could warn you of worn down piston rings, bad seals, failing oil pump etc. You need good oil pressure in order for your engine to operate safely at higher RPM. I choose Water Temp over Oil Temp for two reasons. When your oil is cold, your pressures are low, once the oil is to temperature, your oil pressure will be at nominal readings. I am also fairly certain that your water temp will overheat before your oil temp ever will.

I plan on running an Oil Pressure Gauge and a Water Temp Gauge on my S13 240sx (KA24DE). The Water Temp Gauge is easy because all you would need is a Radiator Hose Adapter to install the Temp Sending Unit. If you want to do a different route, I have seen thermostat housings drilled out and a bung welded for a cleaner looking install with the wires running along the engine harness. The Oil Pressure Gauge can be a little tricky though.

I am going to run a T-Fitting off of the block where the OEM Oil Pressure Sending Unit threads into so I can retain the OEM Pressure Sending Unit while having a place to mount the aftermarket pressure sending unit for the gauge.

You will need to use a 1/8" BPST FITTING! A 1/8" NPT Fitting has the same thread pitch, but the diameter is slightly different than the BPST Fitting.

Will Purchase Gauges and hopefully the fittings from Industrial Liquidators.

Brake Upgrade! (4-Luggers)

The following brake upgrade is for those 240sx owners that run small wheels (15") and want to remain 4-lug. You will not have to upgrade your Brake Mast Cylinder because the sizes of the pistons in the Front and Rear Calipers are the same and require the same amount of fluid to push them as would OEM brakes.

Fronts

1993~1997 Nissan Altima Front Calipers

1993~1997 Nissan Altima Front Rotors

1989~1999 Nissan Maxima Front Pads

Notes:

-11" Rotors.

-Everything will bolt up.

-Won't fit anything smaller than a 15" wheel. OEM Steelies WILL NOT clear the calipers.

-Need to trim or mod the Brake Dust Shield to accommodate for the larger rotor.

Rears

Z31 Nissan 300zx Rear Brake Brackets

2003 Nissan Altima Rear Rotor (would need to be re-drilled for 4x114.3)

S13/S14 Nissan 240sx Rear Brake Pads

Notes:

-11.5" Rotors.

-Setup utilizes your OEM 240sx Rear Calipers.

-Replace your 240sx rear brake brackets with the Z31 rear brake brackets. (the bracket that's between the spindle and the caliper).

Ordered Hawk HPS Pads.

Will order Rotors from Rotorpros.

Will get Z31 Rear Brake Brackets and front Altima Calipers from the Junkyard.

Will make my own steel braided lines from Industrial Liquidators.

Until Next Time,

Happy Wrenching!

-Mainichi Tuning

Change in Postings

Hey Everyone!

I usually don't post in the blog unless there are new and interesting ways to modify our 240sx'. The posts have been few and far in between due to the nature of that goal. I am now going to include modifications I do to my 240sx w/ pics so that it will keep things moving with the Mainichi Tuning Blogspot!

Cheers!

Racking up the Miles

Just clocked over 190,000 miles on the odometer of the 240.